I woke up early, but not as early as usual on Wednesday. I showered and W was up by the time I was done. We got our stuff ready and had breakfast at my favorite diner again, and then we headed out to Shenandoah National Park. We stopped along the way and filled up the gas tank and got drinks and snack foods, and we were in the park fairly early.
We stopped at every overlook, snapping pictures, and stopped at the first Visitor’s Center. I found the Passport to Your National Parks book, and almost bought it. I have always been around National Parks, and have been to more than most people. I was seriously thinking about buying the super duper deluxe edition, but since it was fifty dollars, I opted not to. They also had several small pamphlets describing all the trails in the park, and W chose three. The waterfalls hikes, the short hikes and the easy hikes. She started reviewing them as we drove, but she kept getting distracted by scenery, so I just pulled over and she went through all of the books, marking the ones she wanted to hike. The first one wasn’t too far away, so we drove along seeing the sights and pulling in at the overlooks until we got to the trailhead.
We got out of the car and hoofed it down the trail. The trail was described as a relatively easy hike with two overlooks. The second overlook was the end of the trail, and then you retrace your footsteps back to the parking area. It was a narrow trail, what I would call a game trail. Things were going good, it was a little warm, but not hot, and we found the first overlook about a half mile in. We stood on the rocks, took a few pictures, and then continued up the trail towards the second overlook. W was leading the way, me right behind her.
Suddenly, W stopped and let out a noise of surprise and started backing up. Then I heard it: the sound familiar to anyone who has ever seen a western movie. The buzzzz of a rattlesnake tail. I started backing up to give W more room, and she backed over a rock and fell. I helped her to her feet and we backed up a bit more, staring at the Timber Rattlesnake that she had come within two feet of stepping on. It had been stretched into the trail, but it was now coiled in classic rattlesnake position, tail continuing to buzz. I could see at least 8 rattles on its tail, and it was as big around as my forearm. We took a couple of blurry pictures, and the snake calmed down. It was still coiled and staring, but the tail wasn’t buzzing anymore.
“We don’t need to see the second overlook,” W said. I agreed, and we started walking back down the trail, this time with me in the lead. Apparently, I was not paying close enough attention to the trail at my feet, looking around at the scenery, so W took the lead again. I had my GPS on my belt, the first time I had really had a chance to use it since I bought it, and had just finished looking at it to see how far from the car we were and clipping it back on my belt when W stopped and made her surprise and alarm noise again and stopped in the middle of the trail. I heard a crashing noise, and looked up to see a black bear go crashing through some brush just off the trail and stop about fifty feet away. As we stood there, we saw another bear about thirty yards away, just looking at us. I was in the process of trying to remember bear protocol. I knew that for one kind of bear, you make a lot of noise, and for another, you try to be quiet so you don’t startle it into rushing you. The problem was, I couldn’t remember which you did for grizzly and which you did for black and brown bears. “I can’t remember what we’re supposed to do…” I whispered. W looked at me with very round eyes. “Don’t tell me that!” she whispered back. Finally, we started slowly making our way down the trail past the bears, keeping our eyes on them. After we rounded a bend and they were no longer in sight, I told W that we could now start walking quicker.
According to the GPS, we had been averaging about 1.8 mph walking in. As I tried to keep up with W, the GPS showed 3.8 mph. We only had to walk a few minutes and we were back at the car. I started it up to get the AC going, and got some water to drink. W was pacing back and forth across the parking area. I stood there, watching with amusement, and she stopped pacing long enough to yell at me. “Would you stop dealing with this so calmly so I don’t feel so stupid?!” Finally, she calmed down enough to stop pacing and we got in the car and went up the road.
“So, where is the next one?” I asked.
“Nope. No more hiking. Overlooks only.”
So that’s what we did. We stopped at different overlooks, and soon we were at the area where I had a room reserved. I checked us in, and we put our stuff in the room. We sat for a bit, then decided to do some more looking around. We went farther into the park and got to Big Meadows. W decided that we could hike there, since there were no trees or bushes to hide big animals. We walked around the meadow and only found one deer hiding in a copse of trees. What we did find in great abundance were gnats. They were everywhere, getting in W’s hair, in my eyelashes, and pictures we took in the area were covered in black dots. We decided that enough was enough and we went back to the car. We were also starting to get a bit hungry. We went back to the room and talked for a bit, then went into the restaurant.
I will say this for the restaurant: it was expensive, like I expected it to be, but the food was possibly the best I have had in a National Park. Of course, that does not include the Huckleberry Sweet Bread that you can get in the lodge at Tower Junction in Yellowstone, but that is in a class all by itself, so you can’t really use it as a basis for comparison. After dinner, we walked down a little trail to try and find the area we were told we could build a fire. The plan was to make smores, and we had bought a kit that included the chocolate, graham crackers and sticks. We found the area, but the hill was so steep that W decided to hang out by the fire pit while I went and got the car. We went back to the room and sat out on the porch enjoying the cooler temperature and waiting until we weren’t so full from dinner to make and eat smores. It started to rain, and didn’t look like it was going to let up, so we gave up on the whole smores thing.
About 3 in the morning, it was raining so hard that it woke me up. I was actually able to fall back asleep this time.
Next time… Southern Shenandoah National Park.